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Berlin by Bike: Discovering East and West on Two Wheels |
| Section: LIFE / TRAVEL |
| Author: Mark Yates |
| Publication: The world & I online |
| Issue Date: 1/1/2002 |
| Size: 3,136 Words, 19,101 Characters |
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On a bicycle you can see it all: The eroded apartments, prisonlike tenements, nineteenth-century buildings, and innovative designs of modern architecture. For four decades Berlin's two sides looked in opposite directions like the double-faced Janus. The East grew grim and paranoid while its western doppelgänger thrived and blossomed, mocking its Siamese twin with new wave music and spray paint. Though reunited for more than ten years, the city's former halves still reveal their turbulent origins.
The bicycle frees you from the tourist paths and fixed lines of public transportation. It lets you explore the outlines of history's shadow. For while the Cold War may be over, the buildings and streets, the neighborhoods and shopping districts act as living monuments to the dramatic differen...
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...mpared to the pleasant streets around me, the old and crumbling, fresh and restored, and stern and militaristic dwellings of the east teem with new life, and they seem more vital and compelling because of that. As they get reshaped for the present, they connect with both the past and future and will no doubt be standing long after the west-side flats have been replaced with something newer.
(806 of 19,101 characters)
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